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CHEAP, EXPERIENCED, PREPARED, MOBILE MECHANIC. 15+ YEARS (Alton)
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Hello my name is Jae. I am 41(2026) and I've been a mobile mechanic since 2009 and first started working on cars at 13.
First thing you thing you should know is I don't know the area. I'm from the twin cities and came to the area to expand my music memorabilia business. However fixing cars is how I've supported myself for 15 years now and it's a great easy to add to my growing merch business
I am willing to go anywhere from Cleveland to Akron. I'm located between the two but depending on where I'm coming from before i come to you depends on how much the travel fee is which can range on average from $10 to $25. Everyone pays at least $10.
I'm not on bs I expect you not to be either. I will come to you where the vehicle is and repair it and expect to be paid immediately after with either cash or digital like venmo, cash app, zelle, PayPal. No trade unless we have talked about it long before I ever come to where the vehicle is. If you have rare music memorabilia I may be willing to discuss that as part of trade or possibly the whole thing. Of course this is not a habit that I'd like to get into however if you have anything along these lines I may very well be interested. Bun you boom vinyl records from the early 70's classic rock, 80's metal, 90's grudge. Vintage posters, rock and Blacklight. Valuable CD's or cassettes.b ANYTHING ICP!!! If I'm reading labor for merch I give you 50% of it's average eBay value in credit towards I already super cheap prices.
Third is about parts. I don't typically buy parts with me own money. Say you already know what the issue is but you have not gotten the part, most parts stores will let you pay over the phone and I can pick it up. If its on the way, no problem. If it's on the other side of town then I'll probably going to want a fee for time and gas. That will be figured out and agreed on prior so there aren't any surprises. If you get the parts online but then I get the old ones off and the new ones aren't correct I will expect you to ether get the right ones at the time from a local parts store or pay me for the half the job and I'll come back when you have the right stuff. That's 50% of the price.
I will always try and double check before but some parts you can see 100% till the are off. If you don't know what the issue is that's fine most people don't. I would come to you. diagnose the issue, we would then find the best option and go get it but keep in mind there is a fee for the travel. If you want to go pick it up yourself while I start taking it apart, that's fine if you have a ride or another vehicle.
Fourth is diagnosis. I would prefer if you don't know what the issue is but want me to come and diagnose it then repair it that you are ready to get the repair at that time, however I understand if it's more than you can afford at the time, just be prepared to cover the travel fee and a diagnosis fee. The diagnosis fee depends on how long finding the issue takes me and how much had to come off to find the issue. Just be prepared of that being a possibility with a minimum of $100. Not saying that's how much it could be, there is no way no know but just be prepared. If you are getting the work done right away then there is no fee for the diagnosis. I make money from doing repairs not getting over on people, Please just don't try to get over on me.
And please make sure to let me know if you need clarification on anything that I have said.
Here is a list of repairs and price. Labor only. These are estimates for what it would cost on most vehicles to give you an idea. Not all cars are the same but most are very similar. As an example, BMW, Merladies, Volvo, And Volkswagen are designed different and a lot of the repairs are going to be harder to do so then they would cost more. Some things are easier on say mini copper and would be cheaper. So it all just depend but ether way I go by t he job, not by book time or by the hour.
Keep in mind the price I give you is based on there not being any problems, like heavy rusting, damage made by a past repair, or striped bolts, or other things like that. So please keep in mind that problems with your car are your problems. Just because you pay me to fix something doesn't mean that all of your car is now my problem. Some jobs don't go smooth and most the time it's because of the vehicle, not me. Please keep that in mind.
The more you get done at one time the less each individual job is. The more you get the more the discount.
Front or rear suspension
Lower control arm: 150 or both sides for 250
Upper control arm: 125 or both sides for 200
Upper and lower: both sides 400
Strut assembly: 125 or both sides for 200
Tie rod ends: outer 50 inner 50 both sides inner and outer 200
Sway bar links: 50
Hub assembly: 150 both sides for 250
Press in hub: I charge 200 to pull the knuckle off but it will need to be pressed at a shop. both sides for 400
Cv axle: 150 both sides for 250
Press on ball joint: lower 175, both lower 300. upper 125, both upper 200. both side upper and lower 425
Brakes, Price is for pads and rotors. Doesn't matter if you get just pads. price is the same
Front: 100
Rear: 100
Front and rear: 200
Rear drum brakes: 100. Must get hardware kit.
Caliper replacement: 50 each unless your getting brakes at the same time, then they are 75 for front or 75 for rear
Caliper bracket pins: 25. If they don't slide the caliper will not work right. I have to unstick them, clean, and lube them.
Rear drum cylinder:75 if I'm not doing the brakes at the same time 30 if I am
Brake lines: 20-500 really just depends what I'm doing
Engine components
Starter: 100-500 most are 150
Alternator: 150
AC compressor: 200
AC vac and fill 75 but you rent equipment. Free to rent from any parts store but they want a deposit
Power steering: 150
Water pump serpentine belt driven:150
Water pump timing driven: NA
Spark plug: 4 cylinder 60, 6 cylinder 75 8 cylinder 100 must get plugs and new wire set.
Intake manifold: 250-500
Head gasket: NA
Radiator: 150
Timing belt or chain: NA
Oil change: NA But if you get 400 in work I'll do it for free if you have the oil and filter.
Pulley, tensioners, cam shaft sensors, crank sensors, and other such things 50-200
Other stuff
Heater core under dash: 500-100
Heater core under hood: 250
Subwoofer install kit: 175
In dash stereo: 125 must have wire harness for your year make and model
Windshield front or rear: NA
Window actuator: 75 per window but it must be actuator and motor as one piece already together
Blower motor under glove box: 70 for most
Blower motor under dash: 500-1000
Transmission shift solenoids: 100 depending on location
trans flush: only do with solenoid replacement
These are just some of the jobs I offer. If you didn't see what you need done just ask. Job marked with NA means that I don't do them. I also don't do engine or trans swaps. My minimum for coming to your vehicle and doing a repair is 100 so if your job is less then 100 get something else done or its 100 anyway. If you have any questions or help just call if I don't answer then text cause I might be deep in another job. Don't leave messages, I rarely check them.
Key Words: Auto Repair, Car, Broken, Acura, Audi, Buick, Cadillac, Chevrolet, Chevy, Chrysler,
Dodge, Eagle, Ford, General Motors, GM, GMC, Honda, Hyundai, Infiniti, Isuzu, Kia, Lexus, Lincoln, Mazda, Mercury, Mitsubishi, Nissan, Oldsmobile, Pontiac, Regal, Saturn, Subaru, Suzuki, Toyota,
Volkswagen, Volvo, Mechanical, Brakes, Tie Rod, Ball Joint, Idler Arm, Pit-Man Arm, Axle,
CV Shaft, U-Joints, Wheel Bearing, Exhaust, Muffler, Catalytic Converter, Oxygen Sensor, Tune-Up, Timing Belt,
Head Gaskets, Preventative Maintenance, Transfer Case,
Water Pump, Fuel Pump, Power Steering Pump, Radiator, Starter, Alternator, Condenser, Electrical, Shocks, Struts, Check Engine Light, ABS Warning Light, Air Bag Warning Light.